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Batteries blow fuses with upgraded motors:
Sometimes when you upgrade your motors your car starts blowing fuses. It's easy to think it must be the fault of the new motors but that's not so. Electric motors have only 2 options: work or fail. When they fail then no amount of power will make them move and they create an open circuit so the fuse doesn't blow.
Think of volts and amps as being a highway system. Voltage is the number of cars driving and amperage is the speed they move. Your motors are a sports stadium and your battery is the residents. When you use faster motors (build a bigger arena) you increase the traffic flow (amp flow) going to it. If at any point along your highway (wiring) there is an inefficient area the amperage overflows and the fuse pops. Like having a section of road that narrows on a busy highway. This most commonly occurs in places electricity has to make a "turn": shifter and foot pedal switches. It can also occur in any connection you've added into the system. In good condition a Power Wheel's wiring can easily handle 24 volts of power and 775 size motors. As the switches age there ability to handle increased loads lessens. Fortunately shifter switches and foot pedal switches are cheap and easy to replace so don't sweat it. Also, if you bolted your motors in using a power drill you may be squeezing the gearboxes too tight which also causes an amp backup. Loosen the screws and re-tighten by hand with fresh threadlock.
So what to try:
1. If the shifter handle feels loose then replace the shifter switches.
2. Inspect the bottom of the foot plunger switch. If there's green or black then clean the connectors and replace the switch. If the copper wire looks black you'll need to replace that section of wire harness.
3. If you spliced wires for any reason take the splice apart the splice and make sure it is done right. Soldering is best.
4. If you tightened the motors using a power drill take them back out, put threadlock on the screws, and hand tighten the motors.
5. Check your rear axle for even the slightest bend. Roll it on a flat surface. This problem can also shred final gears, third gears, and gearbox housings.
6. If the batteries are old replace them. If you're using stock Power Wheels brand batteries be aware that they have a 30 amp breaker built in. As they age they handle less and less amperage. If you replace with aftermarket batteries (ours or your own) go up to 40 amps.
7. If you're running rubber tires take them off. The spinning wheel is the cars only clutch. Without that you will blow fuses, gears, motors, and your wallet.


Car won't move at all, no sound from gears:

1. Check your battery with a volt meter. It should have at least 10 volts when dead, up to 14 when charged.
2. Make sure your charger is plugged into an outlet that has power to it!
3. Check the switch under the gas pedal. Most foot board assemblies are press-fit into place and can be "popped" free with a straight-head screwdriver. Corrosion under the foot board is usually obvious to the eye. If the wire harness is corroded we have replacement sections in our Stock Parts section.
4. Check the wires to the motors. There's 2 wires going to each motor. Make sure they haven't come off. If they have they can not be repaired. You'll need to replace the motors.

Car has No Reverse and Only 1 Forward Speed:
1. Check the wires to the motors. One motor may have lost a wire. If so they can not be repaired. You'll need to replace the motors.

2. If you have a shifter assembly then one of the switches has possibly gone bad. If you have dashboard switches then it may be on of them gone bad. They are inexpensive and available at Authorized Power Wheels Service Centers.

Car has No Hi Speed Forward:

1. Most vehicles have a Hi-Speed lockout so younger riders don't go too fast. If your vehicle has a shifter assembly then remove the screw or pin at the base of the shifter handle for Hi Speed. If you have dashboard shifting switches then look under the dash for a disconnected white connector. Plug that in for Hi Speed.
2. If you have a shifter assembly then one of the switches has possibly gone bad. If you have dashboard switches then it may be on of them gone bad. They are inexpensive and available at Authorized Power Wheels Service Centers.

Car is making a grinding noise:

1. That is a stripped gear or one of the wheel drivers. Easy to diagnose- take
off the tire on the side you hear the noise. Open the gearcase and take a look, it's obvious. Nothing will spring apart at you opening a gearcase. (Hint: If one gear case is stripped the other isn't far behind. Replace them both.)

Car shuts off then restarts in 30 seconds:

1. This happens when stock Power Wheels batteries get old or have an increased amp draw either from modified motors or a binding drivetrain. The internal 30amp circuit breaker pops then resets. Make sure the rear axle is perfectly straight and the wheels turn freely. Lighten the vehicle load. Avoid tall grass. Or switch to our batteries which use a 40amp fuse and run 30% longer. Often needed with 24 volt systems or 775 motors.